What Are the Numbers and Reticle Types for Rifle Scopes?

Choosing a rifle scope can be overwhelming. Between numbers, zoom levels, and reticle styles, there’s a lot to take in. But understanding these details can help you make a choice that suits your style, terrain, and target game.

For Aussie hunters, whether you're after pigs in thick scrub or goats across open hills, the right scope setup matters. Let's break down scope numbers and reticles to help you shoot straight, every time.

1. Scope Numbers Explained

When you see a scope labelled “3-9x32”, that’s not just marketing fluff. It actually tells you the zoom range and the size of the objective lens.

• 3-9x: This means variable magnification. You can zoom from 3x (three times closer than the naked eye) to 9x.
  

• 32: This is the diameter (in mm) of the objective lens, which lets light into the scope.
  
  

2. Common Configurations

• Up to 7x,9x or 10x – The “all-rounder” for most traditional hunting needs (3-9x is really common in these situations)
  

• Up to 12x or 15x – Great for spotlighting where you can rely on the stability of shooting from your car bonnet/window/door.

• Up to 25x or 30x– Favoured for long range hunting where a tripod setup can assist with stability and staying on target 

3. Variable vs. Fixed Power Scopes

Variable magnification scopes, like a 3-9x, are popular for their versatility across different ranges and conditions. They’re great for scanning, follow-up shots, and resale, but tend to be heavier, more complex, and pricier for high-end models. Fixed power scopes, such as a 4x32, offer simplicity, durability, and affordability, making them ideal for close-range hunting in thick cover. However, they lack adaptability for varying distances, can be less effective in low light, and are generally less popular today.

4. Objective Lens Size

The objective lens is the front lens of the scope. Larger means more light but also more bulk.

• 40mm – The balance point for weight and brightness.
  

• 50mm+ – Brighter in low light, but heavier and higher-mounted.
  

• 24–32mm – Compact, good for close work, but lower light gathering.
  

Pros of Larger Lenses

• Better in dawn/dusk hunting
  

• Clearer image at high magnification
  

• Can spot more detail
  
  

Cons of Larger Objective Lenses

• Adds weight to your rifle
  

• Requires higher scope rings
  

• Can affect cheek weld and comfort
  

5. Reticle (Crosshair) Types

The reticle is what you see when you look through the scope—the aiming point. Modern scopes come with many styles, from classic crosshairs to ballistic compensating grids.

Let’s break down the most common types you'll see in Aussie hunting shops and online stores.

a. Duplex Reticle

This is the classic design—thick outer lines tapering to a fine cross in the centre. Common in scopes like Leupold and Bushnell.

Best for: General hunting (deer, pigs, goats)

Pros:

• Simple and fast to acquire
  

• Easy to see in low light
  

• Uncluttered sight picture
  

• Reliable for short to mid-range shots
  

Cons:

• No range estimation or drop markings
  

• Not ideal for long-range holdover
  

• Lacks windage guidance
  

b. Mil-Dot Reticle

Has small dots along the vertical and horizontal lines. Used for range estimation and holdovers.

Best for: Shooters with a bit of ballistic knowledge

Pros:

• Accurate ranging with practice
  

• Good for wind and elevation hold
  

• Suitable for varmint and long-range shots
  

• Easier distance calculations as it uses a metric based system
  

Cons:

• Learning curve to use properly
  

• Can be cluttered for beginners
  

• Dots can obscure small targets

• Requires you to know the size of your target 
  
  

c. MOA-based Reticles

MOA (Minute of Angle) reticles are similar to Mil-Dot but calibrated in minutes instead of mils. Common with turret-adjustment scopes.

Best for: Precision shooters who prefer MOA over mils

Pros:

• Pairs with MOA turrets for easy dialing
  

• Precise holdover and windage adjustments
  

• Good for fine-tuning shots
  

Cons:

• Can confuse users familiar with metric
  

• Less common than mils in tactical scopes
  

• Needs solid understanding of ballistics
  

  d. BDC (Bullet Drop Compensator) Reticle

  BDC reticles have hash marks or dots under the central cross to compensate for bullet drop at known distances.

  

  Best for: Mid to long-range shots on known game trails

  Pros:

  • No need to dial turrets
    

  • Fast follow-up shots
    

  • Matched to common calibres (e.g. .308, .223)
    

  • Often labelled for yard/metre marks
    

  Cons:

  • Must match your calibre/load exactly
    

  • Holdovers may not match real-world ballistics
    

  • Can vary between brands

  • Requires you to know the range to your target
    

  e. Illuminated Reticles

  Any of the above reticles can come with illumination (usually red or green), great for low-light shooting.

  

  Best for: Early morning or late arvo hunting

  Pros:

  • Better contrast on dark targets
    

  • Helps against dark backdrops (e.g. pigs in shadows)
    

  • Adjustable brightness settings
    

  • Still usable without power (etched designs)
    

  Cons:

  • Batteries can fail or go flat
    

  • Can bloom or glare at high brightness
    

  • Slightly more expensive
    

  • Adds minimal weight
    

  6. First Focal Plane (FFP) vs Second Focal Plane (SFP)

  This isn’t about the crosshair style but how the reticle behaves when you zoom in and out.

  • FFP: Reticle changes size with zoom. Range and holdovers are always accurate.
    

  • SFP: Reticle stays the same size. Holdovers are only accurate at one magnification.

  FFP Pros:

  • Holdovers work at any magnification
    

  • Good for long-range hunters
    

  • No need to remember “true” zoom range
    

  FFP Cons:

  • Can be hard to see at low zoom
    

  • Usually more expensive
    

  • May feel cluttered at high zoom
    

  SFP Pros:

  • Easier to see at low power
    

  • Usually cheaper
    

  • Familiar for most hunters
    

  SFP Cons:

  • Must know “calibrated” zoom level
    

  • Not ideal for quick zoom changes
    

  • Less accurate for advanced holdover work
    

  7. Final Thoughts

  There’s no one-size-fits-all rifle scope. The “numbers” tell you what it can do, and the “reticle” tells you how you’ll use it. The key is matching your scope to your quarry, your terrain, and your comfort level.

  Don't be afraid to try different setups. Most Aussie hunters end up with more than one rifle, and each deserves the right glass.

  Got a scope setup you swear by? Share it in the comments and let other Aussie hunters know what works in your patch!